Kaavya Sawhney

Gaurav Gupta

Light Song

India Couture Week 2026 · Couture · Shoe Design

Couture for Gaurav Gupta at India Couture Week 2026: the garments, and the shoes that walked with them.

Light Song

Part 1: Garments

Sun, moon and eclipse; Art Nouveau lines rendered in zari, zardozi and bugle beads. As part of the Gaurav Gupta design team, I worked on these garments for Light Song, the India Couture Week 2026 collection, from sketch and embroidery development through to the runway.

House
Gaurav Gupta Couture
Show
India Couture Week 2026
Role
Assistant couture designer
Moodboard: Part 1: Garments
Prabha Lehenga, Lehenga with embroidered cape: collage

Look 01 / 04

Prabha Lehenga

Lehenga with embroidered cape

French taupe lehenga featuring an embellished bucket corset with Art Nouveau-inspired zari zardozi embroidery, highlighted by bugle bead shading in a silver to antique silver gradation. Finished with a fluid trail and an embroidered cape with macramé panels.

Surface

Zari zardozi, Art Nouveau lines
Zari zardozi, Art Nouveau lines
Bugle bead shading, silver to antique silver
Bugle bead shading, silver to antique silver
Embroidery in process
Embroidery in process

In the making

Sketch
Sketch
Artwork
Artwork
On the form
On the form
Photography
Gaurav Gupta Couture (campaign and runway)
Prabha Saree, Open pallu saree with draped blouse: collage

Look 02 / 04

Prabha Saree

Open pallu saree with draped blouse

Open pallu saree featuring chikankari, lace and jacquard appliqué, highlighted with Art Nouveau-inspired metallic thread embroidery. Paired with a draped satin blouse.

Surface

Metallic thread embroidery
Metallic thread embroidery
Lace and chikankari
Lace and chikankari

In the making

Sketch
Sketch
Placement on fabric
Placement on fabric
Photography
Gaurav Gupta Couture (campaign and runway)
Cosmic Firmament Ensemble, Corset, draped skirt and tissue dupatta: collage

Look 03 / 04

Cosmic Firmament Ensemble

Corset, draped skirt and tissue dupatta

Silk crepe corset adorned with gold and silver Art Nouveau-inspired embroidery, styled with a fluid black draped skirt and an attached tissue dupatta featuring embroidered appliqués.

In the making

Sketch
Sketch
On the form
On the form
Photography
Gaurav Gupta Couture (campaign and runway)
Pearl Heritage Saree Gown, Saree gown: collage

Look 04 / 04

Pearl Heritage Saree Gown

Saree gown

Open pallu saree featuring chikankari, lace and jacquard appliqué, highlighted with Art Nouveau-inspired metallic thread embroidery. Paired with a draped satin blouse.

Surface

Setting the embroidery
Setting the embroidery
Metallic thread embroidery
Metallic thread embroidery

In the making

Sketch
Sketch
On the form
On the form
Photography
Gaurav Gupta Couture (campaign and runway)

Part 2: Shoe design

Shoes for the Light Song runway, drawn from the same sky: crystal, geode and celestite, silk in motion, the long exposure of light.

Moodboard: Part 2: Shoe design

Development

Initial sketches to final designs

Directions explored for the runway, narrowed to the final designs.

Initial sketches

24 initial shoe sketches

Final designs

  1. Shoe 1Shoe 1
  2. Shoe 2Shoe 2
  3. Shoe 3Shoe 3
Shoe 1, Sculpting pencil heel: collage

Shoe 1

Sculpting pencil heel

A Gaurav Gupta classic sculpting heel. This pencil heel is made with dori patti work, highlighted with hand embroidery.

Surface

Final design
Final design

In the making

Pattern drawing
Pattern drawing
Mock-up
Mock-up
Dori patti
Dori patti
Sample
Sample
Fitting
Fitting
Photography
Gaurav Gupta Couture (campaign and runway)
Shoe 2, Block pump heel: collage

Shoe 2

Block pump heel

A block pump heel, fully hand embroidered, with variations made in the GG lace as well.

Surface

Final design
Final design

In the making

Bead and sequin strips
Bead and sequin strips
Mock-up
Mock-up
Placement tracing
Placement tracing
Tracing
Tracing
Hand embroidery
Hand embroidery
Sample
Sample
Photography
Gaurav Gupta Couture (campaign and runway)
Shoe 3, Leather and satin pencil heel: collage

Shoe 3

Leather and satin pencil heel

A leather and satin pencil heel, endowed with crystallised embroidery on the straps.

Surface

Final design
Final design

In the making

Crystal strips
Crystal strips
Mock-up
Mock-up
Strap panel
Strap panel
Beading
Beading
In the workshop
In the workshop
Fitting
Fitting
Photography
Gaurav Gupta Couture (campaign and runway)